How to Disassembly / Reassembly the Mauser 98k
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The first steps to take are safety oriented…

1. Lift the safety lever to the upright, or vertical position.

2. Open the bolt and remove it from the rifle by opening the bolt

release lever located on the left rear side of the receiver.

3. Check to see that the magazine is empty, the chamber is empty

and that you can see that the barrel is unobstructed inside.

 

General statement for disassembly / reassembly.

To disassemble the Mauser 98k, you work from the front of the rifle toward

the rear and to reassemble, you work from the rear toward the front.

To begin:

Remove the front sight hood. It is a spring-steel sight-hood that fits in

grooves on both sides of the front sight base. Remove it by tapping it

forward with a piece of wood and it will move forward until it ‘snaps’

off. Notice that the front sight is drift adjustable. You may choose to

get an inexpensive front sight-adjusting tool that we can supply. It

makes fine windage adjustments a snap. Otherwise you need a

hammer, punch and another pair hands to make windage

adjustments.

Remove the cleaning rod by simply unscrewing it and pull it straight

out.

Next, remove the wide front barrel band. Notice that it is connected to

the narrow rear barrel band by a steel bar that is actually a long

spring located between the barrel bands on the right side. The long

spring has a raised surface just aft of the front barrel band. Its

purpose is to enable the unlocking of the barrel bands.

2.

Notice that the front barrel band has a locking pin on the right side.

This pin must be depressed in order to remove the front barrel band.

Do so by using a pair of large pliers or, preferably vice-grips. Insulate

the jaws of the vice-grips with heavy cloth or a piece of leather. This

will prevent scarring the wood or metal of the rifle. Engage the raised

surface of the long spring and encircle the stock just behind the barrel

band. Exert enough pressure until you see that the locking pin is out

of its hole in the front barrel band. Lock the vice grips in this position.

Now tap the front barrel band forward with a piece of wood. Do not

use a metal tool. It will come forward easily. Tap it all the way off.

Relax the vice grips.

Next, grasp the long spring and lift it out.

Next, remove the rear barrel band. It has a sling slot on the left side.

With a piece of wood, tap the rear barrel band forward until it comes

off.

If you wish, you may remove the bayonet lug. Do so by using a small

punch and tap it out from the left side to the right until it comes out.

Be careful to notice that the pin is a one-way pin. It will work properly

in only one direction so remember which way it fits by marking the

‘lead’ end of it with a red marker. Tap the bayonet lug straight forward

and it will come right off.

3.

Next, turn the rifle over. You can see the trigger guard and floorplate.

Remove the floorplate. Do so by using a small round piece of wood

(like a wooden pencil; DO NOT use a screwdriver!) and depress the

plunger in the hole at the rear of the floorplate. It will only move

about 1/8”.

Holding it depressed, exert a strong rearward motion also about I/8th

of an inch and the floorplate will release from the trigger guard. Lift

out the whole follower assembly; floorplate, spring and follower.

Slide the follower off the spring and do so with the floorplate. NOTE:

Be aware of which end of the zig-zag follower spring holds the

floorplate and which end holds the follower. They look alike but they

are not. They only go on one way. Otherwise you risk feeding

failure(s).

Next, remove the trigger guard. It is held in place by two large screws

and two locking screws. Remove the locking screws and remember

where they came from. They are NOT interchangeable. The front lock

screw goes only in the front locking hole and the rear lock screw only

goes in the rear-locking hole. Remove the front and rear screws from

the trigger guard.

Grasp the trigger guard and lift it out of the stock. It will come straight

out. Lift the stock away from the action and barrel. It will lift right off.

The barrel assembly will them be free of the main stock assembly

and will be laying right in front of you!

Next, remove the upper handguard. Do so by first removing the screw

located in front of the rear sight. Grasp the rear underside of the

upper handguard and push it straight away from the barrel. It will

resist you because it has a spring-clamp that you can see that holds it

fast to the barrel. Overcome the spring-clamp by pushing the rear of

the upper hand guard loose as mentioned above and lift it free of the

barrel. It is easy to damage the front of the upper handguard while it

is free of the barrel because the front of it is thinner than the rear part.

The recoil lug remains in the stock. It is normally not removed. If you

choose to remove it, you must also replace it during reassembly. On

the right side of the stock you will see a round plate with two holes

designed for a special spanner wrench. The spanner wrench is

needed to remove (and replace) the round plate because it is tightly

threaded onto the recoil lug. The special spanner wrench is available

from us. With the wrench, fit its two prongs into the corresponding

holes and turn the plate counter-clockwise until it backs all the way

out. Once out, drive the recoil lug straight out of the stock with a small

piece of wood.

4.

Now everything is exposed for cleaning or for ‘dropping-in’ a sporter

stock (that we can supply). Notice that there is one cylindrical spacer

associated with the rear guard screw that generally, but not always,

comes out of the stock with the trigger guard screws. This spacer is

very important. It controls the relationship of the trigger guard to the

receiver. You may remove it from the stock if you wish but it is

normally not necessary. Do not lose it! It is vital. The equivalent front

spacer is actually ‘built-in’ to the front of the trigger guard; therefore

you can’t lose it.

Next…if you wish, you may take out the trigger assembly. Do so by

driving out the trigger hinge pin around which the trigger ‘rotates’.

Naturally it doesn’t ‘rotate’ very much. About 10 degrees. The hinge

pin comes out easily but still must be driven out with a small punch.

Once out, the trigger frame and assembly will literally fall out of the

receiver; it is that well designed. It has a small coil spring that lives in

a small cavity in the trigger frame. The spring is small and easy to

lose. It is also expensive to replace so be careful. The spring is the

trigger return spring and without it the rifle will fail.

You can replace the combat trigger with a special hunting /

competition trigger assembly that we can supply. The new trigger

assembly is fully adjustable while combat triggers are not. The new

trigger assembly will ‘drop-in’ in place of the old trigger assembly.

Next…if you wish, you may take off the bolt release assembly. It is

located on the left rear of the receiver. It is held in place by a pointed

screw and it fits through two raised lugs built in to the left rear of the

receiver. You can’t see them until you remove the bolt release

assembly. Just remove the screw in the normal fashion and lift off the

assembly but don’t lose it. It is expensive to replace.

Congratulations…you have now detail-stripped the Mauser Model 48.

All Mauser models work the same way.

.

To reassemble the rifle…

…simply work in reverse. Start from the rear and work toward the

front.

Leave the bolt out of the rifle at this time.

Attach the bolt release assembly onto the receiver locking it in place

with the pointed screw. Make sure it is spring powered and swings

and returns freely; with no drag.

Restore the original trigger assembly onto the receiver making sure

that the spring rests in its cavity and the hinge pin is put properly in

place. Test the movement of the trigger and make sure that it does

not bind in either direction. The trigger-return spring is built-in to the

new hunting / competition trigger assembly and is not a separate part.

Reassemble the recoil lug back into the stock if you removed it. You

will need the special spanner wrench to properly lock it down.

Reinstall the receiver / barrel / trigger assembly into the stock. Turn

the rifle over. Make sure the main-screw spacers are in place and

reinstall the trigger guard with the main screws and put the small

locking screws in their correct place (the same holes from which they

were removed).

6.

Reassemble the follower onto the follower spring taking care to install

the correct end of the spring into the follower bottom. Reassemble the

floorplate onto the other end of the follower spring. Then reinstall the

entire follower assembly into the magazine well.

Notice that the floorplate has two hook-like surfaces that engage the

magazine well. Hook the front one first and then depress and slide

forward the rear part of the floorplate. You will be overcoming the little

spring-loaded plunger that you depressed to remove the floorplate.

Make sure that the plunger ‘clicks’ audibly into position.

Reinstall the bayonet lug. Do so by sliding it onto the front of the

stock and reinstall its retaining pin. The bayonet lug does not ‘see’ the

upper handguard but the wide front barrel band covers its base.

Reinstall the upper handguard. Snap the clamp over the rear of the

barrel making sure that it ‘goes home’ securely.

Reinstall the rear barrel band. Make sure that the sling-slot of the rear

barrel band is on the left side of the rifle. Tap the rear barrel band

back as far as it will go making sure that it butts up against the wall of

the stock and upper handguard.

Insert the rear part of the long locking spring under the rear barrel

band within its slot in the stock. Reinstall the front barrel band onto

the stock and upper handguard. You must use the vice grips again in

order to depress the raised surface of the long locking spring. The

spring must be depressed low enough to be sure the front barrel

band can slip over the small pin on the front of the spring. It locks the

front barrel band solidly in place. Also make sure it goes all the way

to the wall formed by the upper handguard and the stock. Tap it on

with a piece of wood. Do NOT use a screwdriver. Relax the vice

grips.

7.

Reinstall the front sight hood. It must fit into the grooves on either

side of the front sight base. It is a strong spring-hood. Force the

rounded edges into the grooves and then tap it all the way on with a

piece of wood. There is a special tool that will grasp the hood and

allow you to easily ‘spread’ the hood so that you can easily slip the

hood onto the front sight base.

Install the bolt assembly into the receiver. Make sure the safety is in

the upright, vertical position.

Make sure your rifle is coated with a light coat of high quality gun oil.

Congratulations…you have now properly reassembled your rifle